TOMISLAVGRAD

It’s a day of long climbs from Sinj to Tomislavgrad. The next day there is rain predicted, so Jo and I think it would be a good idea to take the day off and have our bikes serviced. Jo and I had planned to take the Trans Dinarica Route from Sinj to Livno one day, and the next day to Tomislavgrad - which has a bike shop. We decide to pivot, take a more direct route to Tomislavgrad, and skip Livno. Usually when we have deviated from the Trans Dinarica Route, it’s because we want to avoid gravel/dirt roads since we don’t know what condition they are in - and this is especially true when there is a chance of rain. Jo has a touring bike and definitely prefers asphalt.

We find a pretty direct route on Ride with GPS - so instead of 57 miles via Livno (all asphalt), it will only be 45 miles direct to Tomislavgrad. Apparently, we didn’t pay attention to the surface description though... there are long climbs on dirt and one section has big rocks and a 12.9% grade which we had to push our loaded bikes up! What were we thinking!!

An interesting bright spot is that part of our new route segued with the Via Dinarica Route of Our Lady of Sinj, which is an ancient pilgrimage route. It was cool to find the same yellow and white symbol I had seen while walking across Spain on the Camino Trail.

It was a long day and we were very happy to arrive at our apartment and enjoy a heated floor while a storm blew through.

RAMSKA LAKE

Continuing with our theme of going off-route… we decide after Tomislavgrad that we want to explore Ramska Lake, continue to Jablanica, and from there ride along the Neretva River to Mostar. It is a lovely leisurely ride to Ramska Lake with a final long descent overlooking stunning views of gigantic mountain ranges. Notice how small two people look in relation to the surrounding mountains in picture #2 below!

As I continue on the route I meet Laura and Robyn from Belgium, who have been touring for two years, and spend some time talking with them. They have been loosely following the Trans Dinarica Route coming north from Albania, which was their favorite country.

I meet up with Jo at our apartment in Ripci and we chat with the owner. She doesn’t speak English, but does speak German which works for me. She asks which direction we are heading the next day. When we tell her, she says it’s not possible to go that way as the road is washed out. There was a landslide that killed 16 people and left over 50 missing in the town of Jablanica! We’re speechless. If we hadn’t taken the extra day in Tomislavgrad, we could have been caught in the slide…

This unsettling landslide happens on the heels of Hurricane Helene which caused a devastating 1,000 year flood in my hometown of Asheville, NC the week before. The effects of climate change are everywhere.

BLIDNJE LAKE

The next day, the Ripici apartment owner’s son, Tommy, kindly loads our bikes into his truck and takes us most of the way back to Tomislavgrad. We’re happy we don’t have to backtrack on what would now be a long uphill ride. We take the opportunity to ask Tommy about the dangers of going into the woods to take a leak. He confirms what we heard about not going off trail due to land mines. Twenty years after the Bosnian War many land mines do still exist.

We pick up the Trans Dinarica Route to Blidnje Lake and ride through the Blidnje Nature Park. As we arrive at the lake, a storm is fast on our heels. We have to find a place to stay ASAP! A recommended apartment nearby is closed for the season, so we head over to an RV campground which is basically bare earth. No one is around but there is an unlocked shipping container. Perfect! Jo has time to set up her tent before the storm hits and I have a comfortable home in the container.

RAINY DAY

The next day, there is no escaping the rain. Jo wears her very fashionable rain gear with pink shoe covers and I have a functional rain skirt. We climb most of the day on a country road that has hardly any traffic. Our intention is to get to Mostar, but when we stop in Siroki Brijeg for a coffee… and that turns into another… we realize we are tired and book an apartment for the night. Tomorrow will be a short ride to Mostar.

MOSTAR

You know you are in a cool town when the main street is lined with huge old trees, there is interesting street art and an inviting pedestrian path. We find our way to Hostel Miran which has the distinction of being the first hostel in Mostar. This is a family run business: Miran is the gregarious owner, Ameena, his niece is majoring in political science and is the best host, and his brother is the tour guide. This is a great vibe place!

Mostar is considered one of the most beautiful cities in Bosnia-Herzgovinia. It is famous for the Old Bridge, a UNESCO World Heritage site. When the bridge was completed in 1566, it was the widest human-made arch in the world! Experienced locals jump off the bridge for tips. It’s about 70 feet from the bridge to the water. The water in the Neretva River is very cold, and the fall is very fast, which is why it takes training.

DAY TOURS

Jo and I take the day tour of the region offered by our hostel. I also take the Mostar Free Walking Tour which is lead by Arnela. We learn the rich history of the BIH region from our guides who have personal experiences growing up during the Bosnian War.

The driving tour starts with a view overlooking Mostar where our guide explains the War of 1992-1995 and his experience in it. From there we descend to the village of Blagaj, located at the spring of the Buna River and where the Dervish Monestary is nestled next to a cliff. We stop for lunch and local fresh fruit in the historic village of Počitelj, where we climb through the remains of a castle built in 1383. Our final visit is to the Kravica Waterfall which includes a refreshing stop to put our feet in the cold water and have a refreshment.

We end the day with a stop at Najstariji Kafic, next to the Halebija Tower, which is one of the oldest cafe’s in Europe according to the owner. They serve great baklava and Bosnian coffee with an excellent view of the Old Bridge. Even though Mostar is a tourist town, it retains its charm and quaint character.

MONTENEGRO

From Mostar, we jump ahead and take a night bus to Podgorica, which is the capital of Montenegro. Podgorica has a big city functional vibe versus a touristy one. We check out the produce market and visit the Old Ribnica River Bridge at King’s Park. Serendipitously, we run into Nahid and Elchin from Azerbijian who were on the Mostar day tour, and join them for a meal.

The Trans Dinarica Route goes through the mountains in the more northern part of Montenegro. We skip this route because we got spooked with the landslide, and also because we are ready for less climbing.